The Ultimate Ford Bronco Suspension Guide Part 2: Entry-Level Options
Posted by Sean Law-Bowman on
Introduction
Probably the coolest thing about the 2021+ sixth-generation Bronco - at least for suspension nerds like us - is that every trim rolls off the line with coilover struts at all four corners. That means the heart of your lift is a good set of struts or coilovers, which makes throwing a kit on pretty easy and can even hand you a ton of ride-height adjustment. It also makes choosing the right struts or coilovers that much more important.
So today we're diving into our go-to entry-level options for the Bronco so you can find the right setup for how you actually drive. As always, we test this stuff on our own trucks - we make the mistakes so you don't have to.
Before You Buy: Know Your Factory Suspension
Depending on how you count them, these Broncos left the factory with about three or four different suspension setups, and that makes a drastic difference - not just in how much lift you can expect from a given product, but in which coilovers and struts are even worth running on your rig.
Simply put, you have to know what you have to know what you're gaining or potentially losing. Before you spend a dollar, make sure you've read Part 1 of this buyer's guide series, where we break down every factory suspension option and cover the supporting parts you might need alongside a coilover or strut upgrade - like upper control arms - and exactly when you'll actually need them.
Setting the Ground Rules
Since we're going over our favorite entry-level options, let's lay down some rules. When we say "entry-level," we're talking more about performance and intended use than price - though most of what we cover here will land below what we get into in the next episodes.
These options are for people just getting their feet wet in the off-road world and unsure how serious they'll get, the occasional light-trail or dirt-road driver, and daily drivers who want to look a little cooler in the parking lot or just hate their commute a little less. If your goal is big tires, big trails, or big speeds over big bumps, hang tight for the next installment.
This is the "nothing fancy" section. Everything here is an upgrade for anyone on the base HOSS 1.0 suspension. If you've got the HOSS 3.0 Fox shocks, you'll probably want to skip this one entirely. And if you're running the yellow HOSS 2.0 Bilsteins, listen carefully on each option to decide whether what you'd be sacrificing is worth what you'd be gaining.
| Shock | Best For | Approx. Lift | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bilstein 5100 | HOSS 1.0 owners who want the best comfort-per-dollar and a little lift on stock springs | Up to ~1.7″F / 1.4″R (Sasquatch); up to ~2.95″F / 2.5″R (base trims) | No internal bump stops; bottoms out easier; 35″ tire max; lateral move for HOSS 2.0, downgrade for HOSS 3.0 |
| OME Nitrocharger | Heavier base-model overland builds that need spring support and long-term reliability | Varies by spring selection | Twin-tube design limits performance; not for big tires or high speed; priced close to much better options |
| Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 1 | HOSS 1.0 owners who want 5100-style adjustment plus matched springs and a load setting | ~1″–3″F / 0.5″–2.5″R (engine & door-count dependent) | HOSS 1.0 only; priced near kits in a different performance league |
| Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 2 | HOSS 1.0 & 2.0 owners chasing low-speed trail comfort and articulation on 35″ tires | Threaded body; more travel than Stage 1 | 2″ body fades at high speed; struggles with 37s; rear sway & brake rise on 2-doors without a rear sway bar |
Bilstein 5100
A perfect example of that "listen carefully" point is the Bilstein 5100 - which most of you already know, since it's still the most popular item we sell for just about every vehicle. It's the quintessential ride-height-adjustable, roughly two-inch-body monotube strut, and it lets you reuse your stock springs.
Adjustment ranges depend on your trim:
- Sasquatch package: about stock height up to 1.7″ of front lift and 1.4″ in the rear.
- Badlands without Sasquatch: roughly 0.7″–2.5″ front and 0.4″–2″ rear.
- Everything else: roughly 1″–2.95″ front and 1″–2.5″ rear.
To give you the lay of the land: the 5100 is a big downgrade for HOSS 3.0 trucks, a marked improvement for HOSS 1.0 trucks, and something close to a lateral move for HOSS 2.0 trucks with the factory Bilsteins.
My Bronco had the HOSS 2.0 Bilsteins, and the 5100s were the first shocks we tried, so let's talk about what you gain and what you lose. If you've got the Sasquatch package, I don't need to tell you what jackhammers the stock shocks are - they'll shake the fillings out of your teeth on a washboard road, and those internal bump stops can feel like a punch to the gut. The 5100s solve both of those problems and then some, all while netting you a little lift.
The catch: losing those internal bump stops and external reservoirs means they're as far behind in the party department as they are ahead in the comfort department. They bottom out more easily and don't recover from big hits nearly as well - something I found out very quickly. They're great for the average fire-road cruiser or easy-trail runner, but if you loved how hard the stock ESCVs partied when you were smacking bumps at speed, slashing a fire road, or bumping up a tough trail, the 5100s may disappoint.
Truth be told, I think the 5100s should have been the factory option and the ESCVs the aftermarket upgrade - the 5100s feel the way stock suspension should feel on the road, while still being better than most vehicles' stock suspension off-road. If you have the basic black Hitachis, you'll be pleasantly surprised by the extra comfort and control, and most people won't complain about the extra lift.
As with everything here, 35″ tires are the limit. I found witness marks from the stock 315s on my fenders from all the hard bottom-outs, and any more unsprung mass and the 5100s simply can't keep the tires on the ground over bumps. That's not a knock - at this price point they'd be my choice, bar none - it's just important to temper your expectations.
Bilstein
5100
2021+ Ford Bronco
OME Nitrocharger Plus Lift Kits
Old Man Emu takes its usual holistic approach with the Nitrocharger-based lift systems - you get springs on top of the struts, plus a few other nice-to-have parts. That's why pricing runs well above the 5100s and some other options, even though the dampers themselves aren't necessarily as desirable a design. The NCPs are twin-tube shocks, which means they're inherently limited by small pistons and modest damping potential.
That said, OME was a spring company first, and I think that's what still makes them worth a look - at least if you're on HOSS 1.0 today. They offer these kits with an incredibly wide range of spring options for different loads, so if you're building a heavier overland rig off a non-Sasquatch or non-Badlands truck, they're a solid way to get onto mild trails. These and the 5100s are also the two most reliable, longest-lasting options here, so you can buy with confidence knowing you won't be spending again anytime soon.
So while it's a downgrade for the upper trims - and definitely not big-tire friendly or happy with high-speed shenanigans - the OME kit isn't a bad option for base-model owners who need to eliminate sag and improve stability after loading up on overland essentials.
Here's the honest truth, though: you're only a few hundred dollars away from something that performs exponentially better, like the Icon 2.5 EXP, or Bilstein 6100s with Dobinsons springs if you want something stiffer than what the 6112s ship with. Even as a heavyweight overlander on the basic Hitachi shocks, this is one of those "buy once, cry once" situations where spending a little more up front will likely make you happier and save you money long-term.
Old Man Emu
Nitrocharger Plus
2021+ Ford Bronco
Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 1
Like everyone else, Eibach offers a Stage 1 kit for these Broncos - but it's only recommended for HOSS 1.0 trucks, so Sasquatch, Badlands, and Wildtrak owners can avert their eyes here.
The kit is built around Eibach's Pro-Truck Sport struts, which are essentially a twin to the 5100. What sets it apart in both price and performance is that it comes with springs, similar to the OME approach. So you get 5100-style adjustment, but instead of reusing your stock springs, you run Eibach's coils. The range is comparable - around 1″–3″ front and 0.5″–2.5″ rear depending on engine and door count - with one extra setting up top to help offset added constant load, so the system can grow with you a bit.
That means if you add a small bumper, a winch, or better skids down the line, you may be able to keep these same springs and struts. All in, it's a clear upgrade over the HOSS 1.0 hardware and a very comfortable route below the top settings, which makes it a genuinely compelling option. Just like the OME, though, you're not far off options that are in a completely different league - so it may be worth saving a little more so you don't sell yourself short.
Eibach
Pro-Truck Lift Stage 1
2021+ Ford Bronco
Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 2
Eibach's Stage 2 kit uses a similar 2″-body monotube design, but the bodies are threaded - and because they aren't bound by the same limitations as Stage 1, they offer significantly more travel. Paired with Eibach's spring choice, the result is an incredibly comfortable setup.
Unlike everything else on this list, the Stage 2 is at least situationally a notable upgrade for HOSS 2.0 trucks, and it's a country mile better than HOSS 1.0. It's still a 2″ body, so it has its limits, but it frequently surprised me with what it could handle. It's not my pick for high-speed off-road - it fades fast and struggles to recover - but all that extra travel helps it keep up with, and in some cases pass, the stock Bilsteins for a little while.
Where it really shines is lower-speed trails, where the extra articulation makes a huge difference in traction and stability. That said, it's not without flaws. Tire rub was minimal for me, but the Stage 2 struggled to keep up with the weight of my 37″ tires. The front end constantly dribbled on the highway - the steering would go completely light over bumpy on-ramps, off-ramps, and interchanges - and brake dive, or more accurately brake rise out of the rear, was pretty extreme. The sway and wobble out back made it a little disconcerting behind the wheel.
A lot of that is my specific truck, though: my Bronco didn't come with a rear sway bar, and being a 2-door means weight transfers more violently than in a 4-door. Those are problems you might not have - or can engineer around:
- Running the same 1.75″–2″ rear lift I had, a track-bar relocation should get the roll-center and center-of-gravity planes back in line, which in theory reduces brake dive.
- If your Bronco didn't come with a rear sway bar, adding one is far from difficult.
- Keep it to a 35″ tire - or a wheel-and-tire package no heavier than about 100 lbs - and you'll be a lot happier than I was.
Because these take flat-ground springs, you have plenty of options to alter front spring rate if you add weight. Eibach also offers HD springs front and rear, available separately or preinstalled on the coilovers, which makes things easier and lets the kit grow with your build to some degree.
Eibach
Pro-Truck Coilovers Stage 2
2021+ Ford Bronco
Frequently Asked Questions
For most HOSS 1.0 trucks, the Bilstein 5100 is our top pick for the money - it's a ride-height-adjustable monotube that reuses your stock springs and delivers the best comfort-per-dollar in this group. If you're building a heavier overland rig off a base model, the spring options in the OME Nitrocharger or Eibach Stage 1 kits may suit you better, and the Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 2 is the pick if low-speed trail comfort matters most.
It depends on your trim. Sasquatch models get up to about 1.7″ of front lift and 1.4″ in the rear; Badlands without the Sasquatch package run roughly 0.7″–2.5″ front and 0.4″–2″ rear; and everything else lands around 1″–2.95″ front and 1″–2.5″ rear.
35″ is the practical limit for every option here. Beyond that, the added unsprung weight overwhelms these dampers - they can't keep the tires planted over bumps, and you'll risk fender rub and hard bottom-outs.
If you're on HOSS 3.0 (the Fox setup), skip this tier entirely; most of these would be a downgrade. On HOSS 2.0 (the yellow Bilsteins), the 5100 is roughly a lateral move, but the Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 2 can be a situational upgrade thanks to its extra travel. These kits make the biggest difference for base HOSS 1.0 trucks.
They're reliable, long-lasting, and their real strength is spring selection for heavier base-model overland builds. That said, the twin-tube dampers are performance-limited, and you're often only a few hundred dollars from a much better setup like the Dobinsons IMS or Bilstein 6100s - so for a lot of builds it ends up being a "buy once, cry once" situation.
Adding a rear sway bar, and relocating the track bar all help - but the kit is happiest on 35s or a wheel and tire package under 100lbs a corner.
Stage 1 uses Pro-Truck Sport struts (a near-twin to the 5100) with matched springs, and is recommended for HOSS 1.0 trucks only. Stage 2 steps up to a threaded 2″ monotube body with significantly more travel, making it more comfortable and articulate on trails - and unlike Stage 1, it can even be a situational upgrade for HOSS 2.0 owners.
Possibly, depending on how much lift you run and your factory setup. We break down exactly which supporting parts - like upper control arms - you may need, and when, in Part 1 of this buyer's guide series.
Which Entry-Level Setup Is Right for You?
Shocks like these are just the tip of the iceberg. Every option here is a real upgrade for a HOSS 1.0 truck, a couple are worth a hard look for HOSS 2.0 owners, and none of them are the right call if you're already on HOSS 3.0. Use the quick reference chart to match a kit to how you actually drive.
We've got a lot more options for serious enthusiasts coming up in the next episode. Ready to upgrade now? Browse the full range of Ford Bronco shocks and coilovers at ShockSurplus.com, or call our experts at 213-433-3616 and talk to someone who's actually driven the thing.
